A Year in Preserving - Rumtopf

When looking into the historical reasons for preserving foods they tend to fall into two categories: Foods to get us through times when we may not have enough nutrition to cope and also, foods which we want to keep for a special occasion or feast.
In Europe, lots of foods are preserved and put away for Christmas. It seems strange typing about Christmas at the end of July but for our forefathers and mothers this would have been the start of the planning for the feast of the Christ Child. At a later date I will discuss the culinary masterpieces that are Mince Pies and Christmas Pudding but for now, I will tell you about a treat which has fallen out of favour of late, The Rumtopf.
As with much in the food world there is much controversy that surrounds this boozy preservation of fruit, not least its origins. The Germans claim it, as do the Austrians, the Danish and the Northern Italians. I'm sure that the truth about who first preserved fruit in Rum in an earthenware pot will never be known, and I'm pretty sure it matters about as much as the pronunciation of Scones. Suffice is to say that this practice happened somewhere in central Europe first.
The idea is quite simple. One takes an earthenware pot with a lid and pops in it soft fruit as the summer and autumn season progresses. One covers the fruit with rum (and a little sugar) every time a new fruit is added. This way the fruit turns into boozy compote for pain perdu or waffles and the remaining liquid is a perfect late night toast to the birth of Christ or to see in the New Year.
My mother had owned a decorated Rumtopf pot for many years without ever using it so being the good son I stole it last New Year and, on the 1st of July I began preparations for Christmas.
The first fruit to go in was Strawberries (01.07.19)
Then some gifted Red Currents (06.07.19)
Followed by Apricots from the veg box (22.07.19)
After that some Plums from the veg box (31.07.19)

I await now some Scottish Strawberries to be followed by gathered Blackberries (the ultimate free fruit) and then I will probably be at the top of the pot.
Many of the recipes I have read suggest that the rum should be of a Central European type and definitely over proof. I have just used Lambs Navy as the cost of getting hold of very expensive rums would be a little too rich!

  

A Year in Preserving - Smoked Salmon

It is hard to imagine a time before Smoked Salmon. It is especially hard to imagine Christmas or New Year without this luxury. Yet in the greater history of Christmas joys it is a relative new comer; in its present form it has only been around for a little over 100 years. Whilst fish has been smoked in the UK for many centuries the curing and cold smoking of salmon can trace its origins back to 1905.

Eggs Royale the perfect
Christmas breakfast

During the first decade of the twentieth century, The UK became a place of refuge for those, especially Jews, facing persecution in Eastern Europe. Many settled (as many immigrants did before and after) in the East End of London. One such was a man called Forman. The story goes that this finder of asylum began to smoke salmon and other fish imported form the Baltic. These fish had been transported in salt or brine and were not of the best quality upon their arrival in the docks of the East End. It was only after a visit to Billingsgate Market that Mr Foreman realised that Wild Scottish Salmon was a thing of enormous beauty and was available without weeks of travel. The Formans salted this fish, dried it and then smoked it : The London Cure was born.
Forman's is still going under the fourth generation and without doubt produces a product of superb quality, however, it is perfectly possible to produce smoked salmon at home with some very simple kit.
A couple of years ago I went on a food smoking course a a food school near Milton Keynes called Coldsmoking. (they can be found at coldsmoking.co.uk ) The school is run by an ex fire fighter called Turan, and the day under his instruction was a wonderful way to spend a damp November Saturday. From thence forward I have never bought smoked salmon!

The kit

So how is it done? The only kit required is a, quite inexpensive, smoke creator and a cardboard box (specialist ones are available online but not always necessary).

Ingredients
1 Salmon
Salt

If buying a whole fish make sure it is filleted and pin-boned, if you are unsure about how this is done get you fishmonger to do it for you or simply buy in single fillets.
The salmon should be laid on a tray and sprinkled liberally with salt, concentrating, especially on the thicker parts of the fish. This should then be placed in the fridge loosely covered with baking parchment for 6 to 24 hours depending on the salt you use (more hours if you are using kosher salt or a sea salt like Malden).

Salted and ready for the fridge

After its day in salt the fish should be washed of the salt and thoroughly dried. This is then placed back in the fridge for another 24 hours.
The fish will come out with a slightly sticky surface (a pelicile) and it will be firmer and feel a bit more "meaty". Now is the time to bring on the smoke. The type of wood dust you use is a matter of choice and, to be honest, I'm still experimenting but please buy food grade dust or chips - you don't want chainsaw oil in your burner!

The cook checking for smoke

The box is placed outside, the fish placed on racks within the box and the burner lit. Now its just a matter of time. The shortest I have smoked for is 4 hours but I have gone up to 6.
Then comes the hardest bit of all - The smoked salmon will be so much better 24 to 36 hours after the end of smoking - patience is a richly rewarded virtue in this case!
the easiest and most sensible thin cut is a D cut where you cut the flesh at an angle so as to cut a very thin, broad D. The is, however, a gentleman at Foreman's who can slice with a knife the full length of the fish, thin enough slices to be almost see-through.

D - cut smoked salmon

I have made Smoked salmon for friends, family, and village functions and it always goes down a storm. Unless you are prepared to spend a fortune, you will not be able to match the quality in purchased Smoked Salmon.
Give a man some smoked salmon and he is grateful; teach a man to smoke salmon and he suddenly has a lot of friends!
(Not all the photographs in this blog were taken at the same time)