.... Hot Cross Buns!
As I sit here typing on the first day of the Easter School Holidays (yipee!), my little house is filled with the smell of mixed spice, yeast, citrus and baking. I am making my own Hot Cross Buns. Now I'm afraid its time for a bit of a rant here:
Historically Good Friday was the most sombre of all the days in the Christian calender. A true Sabbath. Shops did not open and people had a quiet calm day.
Before I go on I must state I consider myself only culturally Christian - I sing in a church choir, I love the poetry of many Bible readings and I try to live my life by a pretty Christian ethos but as for faith and such I'm still not sure.
The only shop that would open on Good Friday was the bakers and they would only open for a few hours and only to sell Hot Cross Buns. (For those who do not speak fluent English Culinary delights, Hot Cross Buns are a spiced bread tea cake with a white pastry cross across the middle traditionally eaten from Good Friday through the Easter season) Many bakers would have a queue around the block for these treats after the abstinence of Lent.
Now here's the ranty bit! Why must these treats be on sale, not only for 5 weeks before Easter, but all year round? Take the cross off and serve tea cakes instead. We need as human beings to mark the passing of time in ways other than our pay packets.
The "Me, mine, my, NOW!" culture is destroying our appreciation of time passing. For those who have forgotten, the asparagus season (yes it does have a season) is traditionally from St Georges day until midsummer day, and no, we don't need them on our Christmas table.
Wouldn't it be wonderful if we could build up with increasing excitement to the first English Strawberry of the season and be sure in the knowledge that there would still be some Scottish raspberries available as the nights started to close in.
Its not just about eating seasonal produce its about marking the year with wonderful treats and food moments to savour. Who knows, we could introduce a whole generation of young people to the joy of a runner bean picked five minutes before it hits the hot water, or the tart sweetness of the first bramble of the late summer. I may just be dreaming but I hope that with the new food movements around the country and the desire for real, sustainable, tasty food that doesn't destroy the planet, blows our taste buds into new dimensions and reconnects us with the passing of time. Now that's something I can put some faith into.
To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven:
Ecclesiastes 3:1
Friday, 29 March 2013
Saturday, 16 February 2013
I hate to say I told you so but....
Sometimes it is best to wait before making a comment, see what transpires before you decide to follow a certain line of thought. I cannot, however, hold back any longer the time has come for me to pass comment on the whole horse meat saga.
There are two real aspects of this: The eating of horse and the fact that many people did not know they were eating anything other than beef.
There is no major problem, morally or environmentally with eating horse instead of beef. It is miles away from the British cultural register but, in essence there is not a health issue. Though passing off some meats as other meats which certain cultures and religions do not eat is despicable. Again, it probably doesn't offer a major physical health problem but to ride roughshod over people's religious conscience is an act of shameful profiteering, devoid of morals or decency.
Not knowing what we are eating is a much larger problem. If we insist on sourcing meat from all over Europe and moving it from country to country before packaging it in some kind of mince based product, then there is so much room for problems to occur that we really should not be surprised.
Meat has become a commodity, traded internationally without any consideration for quality or safety. Somewhere in the tangled chain of supply somebody must have known that this was not beef, but horse. The two meats are similar but not indistinguishable. Horse is much leaner than beef and has a different texture, any butcher with any skills or experience would spot the difference. There is no doubt that there have been, at best, many acts of deliberate ignorance if not criminality.
If you cannot cook, owing to lack of ability or time then, of course, the ready meal is the way to feed yourself and those you love. The answer, however, is not to buy the cheapest option available. Buy your ready meals from people who make in small batches (this means that the meal is made by a person in a kitchen, not by a machine in a factory). If it is not clear where the ingredients have come from, ask and keep asking till you get an answer that satisfies you.
In the broader picture we need to ask who is in control of our food supply and hold them to account at every turn. I shall say it again for all those who are listening - Eat less meat, eat better quality meat, buy meat from a butcher if you can and treat meat as something very precious.
On a more positive note, a couple of weekend's ago the Beautiful Wife was on a course in Tetbury in the Cotswolds and I went with her to enjoy the foody joys of this area. I now have a Hobbs House Sourdough ferment and, as I type my second loaf from this "starter" is in the oven, filling the house with wonderful smells.
There are two real aspects of this: The eating of horse and the fact that many people did not know they were eating anything other than beef.
There is no major problem, morally or environmentally with eating horse instead of beef. It is miles away from the British cultural register but, in essence there is not a health issue. Though passing off some meats as other meats which certain cultures and religions do not eat is despicable. Again, it probably doesn't offer a major physical health problem but to ride roughshod over people's religious conscience is an act of shameful profiteering, devoid of morals or decency.
Not knowing what we are eating is a much larger problem. If we insist on sourcing meat from all over Europe and moving it from country to country before packaging it in some kind of mince based product, then there is so much room for problems to occur that we really should not be surprised.
Meat has become a commodity, traded internationally without any consideration for quality or safety. Somewhere in the tangled chain of supply somebody must have known that this was not beef, but horse. The two meats are similar but not indistinguishable. Horse is much leaner than beef and has a different texture, any butcher with any skills or experience would spot the difference. There is no doubt that there have been, at best, many acts of deliberate ignorance if not criminality.
If you cannot cook, owing to lack of ability or time then, of course, the ready meal is the way to feed yourself and those you love. The answer, however, is not to buy the cheapest option available. Buy your ready meals from people who make in small batches (this means that the meal is made by a person in a kitchen, not by a machine in a factory). If it is not clear where the ingredients have come from, ask and keep asking till you get an answer that satisfies you.
In the broader picture we need to ask who is in control of our food supply and hold them to account at every turn. I shall say it again for all those who are listening - Eat less meat, eat better quality meat, buy meat from a butcher if you can and treat meat as something very precious.
On a more positive note, a couple of weekend's ago the Beautiful Wife was on a course in Tetbury in the Cotswolds and I went with her to enjoy the foody joys of this area. I now have a Hobbs House Sourdough ferment and, as I type my second loaf from this "starter" is in the oven, filling the house with wonderful smells.
Tuesday, 22 January 2013
In praise of bland
We spend our life being told by TV chefs that you should add some citrus to make stuff "zingy" or "bring on the heat with some chilli" and I must say that much of my food has spikes of flavour in order to make the diner raise their eyebrows half way up their foreheads! However, it pays us to remember what joy there is in the bland flavoured foods which offer yang to the ying of spiky flavours, the palates on which we paint with the sexier more vibrant flavours.
We must also remember that a bland meal is not necessarily one without flavour. When you avoid the punch of the "big flavours" you find that you start to taste the subtlety in things and enjoy the soft calm and gentle earthy warmth of taste without shock.
The good folks at Abel and Cole managed to get our veg box to us on Friday before the snow set in properly and in the box was a beautiful cauliflower. Creamy, dense and heavy, it was a thing of great beauty and huge potential. My instincts said "bring on the chilli" but, for once, I ignored them. I made some lovely fritters and served them with mayonnaise laced with the tiniest bit of garlic. I took for inspiration a recipe by Ottolenghi
One small Cauliflower
Two eggs
A mug of plain flower
An onion (slowly fried until light brown and sweet)
1 Tsp Cumin
1/2 Tsp Turmeric
Break the cauli into small florets and boil a little longer than you really want to. Drain and mash until they have texture but there are no big lumps. Beat the eggs and add then to the flour and the spices. Season and add the batter to the cauli. Using a ladle to pour the batter into a frying pan, cook the fritters in a thin slick of oil (about 3 to a frying pan) for about 4 minutes on each side, keep warm and repeat. They should be a lovely golden brown.
I garnished with lime chunks (I know, I know, spiky flavours), rocket leaves, sunflower seeds and black sesame seeds.
We must also remember that a bland meal is not necessarily one without flavour. When you avoid the punch of the "big flavours" you find that you start to taste the subtlety in things and enjoy the soft calm and gentle earthy warmth of taste without shock.
The good folks at Abel and Cole managed to get our veg box to us on Friday before the snow set in properly and in the box was a beautiful cauliflower. Creamy, dense and heavy, it was a thing of great beauty and huge potential. My instincts said "bring on the chilli" but, for once, I ignored them. I made some lovely fritters and served them with mayonnaise laced with the tiniest bit of garlic. I took for inspiration a recipe by Ottolenghi
One small Cauliflower
Two eggs
A mug of plain flower
An onion (slowly fried until light brown and sweet)
1 Tsp Cumin
1/2 Tsp Turmeric
Break the cauli into small florets and boil a little longer than you really want to. Drain and mash until they have texture but there are no big lumps. Beat the eggs and add then to the flour and the spices. Season and add the batter to the cauli. Using a ladle to pour the batter into a frying pan, cook the fritters in a thin slick of oil (about 3 to a frying pan) for about 4 minutes on each side, keep warm and repeat. They should be a lovely golden brown.
I garnished with lime chunks (I know, I know, spiky flavours), rocket leaves, sunflower seeds and black sesame seeds.
 |
| The steaming glory of the bland! |
Tuesday, 1 January 2013
Happy new year!
I Have not written much lately as we have had the builders in, trying to ensure that Corner Cottage survives another 138 years! So cooking anything remotely complicated has been impossible. However, as the majority of the work was completed before Christmas we were able to enjoy a fine spread over the Festive Period. When we were first married, the beautiful wife and I decided that we would spend Christmas without any family (apart from the cats) and that we would visit relatives after the madness was over; we enjoyed it so much that we have done the same every year since. For the big day we had a duck, the perfect feast day roast for two. I got mine from Abel and Cole who do my veg box and it was first class with plenty of bits and bobs to nibble on in the days after.
The bird itself carved like butter and tasted like a dream. We went a bit overboard with the trimmings which put the little kitchen under pressure but we managed to eat well, very well. The day had started with eggs BBenedict. I'd made some stove top muffins on Christmas eve and pre poached some eggs, so all that was required was a quick whisk up of an hollandaise sauce and we were away.
Today I decided that all the left overs and bits and bobs had to be used up so we had:
Salad of Butternut squash, dressed with lemon and yoghurt
Salad of shredded Brussels Sprouts with salami
Salad of Rocket with smoked salmon
Spiced cakes of root vegetables
My fridge is now clearer and ready for the good things of the New Year. This year I plan to waste less, Eat more vegetarian dishes, bake more and experiment much more with food. Here's to a very peaceful, prosperous and delicious 2013 with all the food we need and a little of what we want too.
 |
| Carving. |
Today I decided that all the left overs and bits and bobs had to be used up so we had:
Salad of Butternut squash, dressed with lemon and yoghurt
Salad of shredded Brussels Sprouts with salami
Salad of Rocket with smoked salmon
Spiced cakes of root vegetables
My fridge is now clearer and ready for the good things of the New Year. This year I plan to waste less, Eat more vegetarian dishes, bake more and experiment much more with food. Here's to a very peaceful, prosperous and delicious 2013 with all the food we need and a little of what we want too.
Sunday, 14 October 2012
Homemade in Haddenham
Yesterday the Beautiful Wife and I took a stand at the above event. It is run by an organisation calling itself Haddenham in Transition which aims to move the "village" of Haddenham (supposedly the largest village in England) towards a more sustainable future. They run a apple press (for the use of locals) and are working on various other means of reducing waste and the inevitable footprints which go with the excesses of modern living. They run Homemade in Haddenham for the trading of goods made or grown around the village. The Beautiful Wife uses her incredible talents to produce almost anything that involves stitching (from fine embroidery to leather goods) and I stole 18 inches of her table for some tray bakes.
Much more important to me than making enough money to by a bottle of wine for dinner tonight was the diversity of people who took stalls and provided food and drink of an exceptional quality. Let me tell you, the quality of the pork roast (from Orchard View Farm) was off the scale of good things. XT Brewery were there (see earlier post) and there were lectures on breadmaking, home brewing and bee keeping amoung other things.
The day was a triumph, full marks to Allison and the team - I'll be back next year with more Brownies to sell!
Much more important to me than making enough money to by a bottle of wine for dinner tonight was the diversity of people who took stalls and provided food and drink of an exceptional quality. Let me tell you, the quality of the pork roast (from Orchard View Farm) was off the scale of good things. XT Brewery were there (see earlier post) and there were lectures on breadmaking, home brewing and bee keeping amoung other things.
The day was a triumph, full marks to Allison and the team - I'll be back next year with more Brownies to sell!
Monday, 1 October 2012
Thame Food Festival - WOW
On Saturday last I worked with the magnificent team at What's Cooking for the Thame Food Festival. I'm sure I'm not alone in feeling a sense of irony that many of the stallholders, foodies to a man or woman, were unable to get round and talk food with other traders because it was just so wonderfully busy. The weather was kind, and that hasn't been a given this year; the organisation worked well for most people: many (oh so very many) people had a fantastic day: and scores of independent traders did what they became independent to do - trade!
Now I'm not going to pretend that the good people of Thame represent a cross section of the British public and the thousands of visitors who came from largely the Bucks / Oxon borders are clearly not on the breadline but there was a genuine interest in traceability, food ethics, locality and all the other things that really matter in the new food movement.
There will, no doubt, be the armchair critics of such an event - don't listen to them - They either weren't there or they just don't get it.
I, for one, can't wait for next year.
Now I'm not going to pretend that the good people of Thame represent a cross section of the British public and the thousands of visitors who came from largely the Bucks / Oxon borders are clearly not on the breadline but there was a genuine interest in traceability, food ethics, locality and all the other things that really matter in the new food movement.
There will, no doubt, be the armchair critics of such an event - don't listen to them - They either weren't there or they just don't get it.
I, for one, can't wait for next year.
Monday, 24 September 2012
The traveller's dream
Motorway Service Stations are, to my mind, places without soul or joy. I know they are there to fulfil a purpose but why must this mean that they lack individuality or difference? The majority of these road side stops are made up of a couple of fast food franchises (Maybe a KFC and a Burger King or McDonalds), a WHSmiths, a coffee multinational, and an uninspiring cafeteria serving overpriced and uninteresting meals which are, at best fuel for the motorist. All this is done at mark up from the normal high street prices.
When I started this blog, I set out to be positive and for this reason I don't want to dwell on the problem of motorway services but I'd like to put forward some ideas for solving these issues. There are several really wonderful service stations on our roads but there are simply too few.
"So," I hear you ask, "what would the perfect service station look like then?"
Well, first and foremost I wouldn't ban fast food, but if we have a burger bar, why not one serving real, possibly organic burgers and real chips cut from potatoes (we could even leave the skin on and really blow people's minds). Of course the ingredients would have to be local and made by people who really care about the food they are making and serving. With the growth in high quality street food at the moment this is not some kind of dream, this can be done.
Then comes the coffee shop - There is a very positive reason why there are some mega-brands in this market - they often serve great coffee! What my perfect service station would have, however, would be a small, independent supplier of coffee (yes they do exist) and again I'd like a bit of traceability and, of course we would be talking Fair Trade here.
Now the real problem: The Cafeteria. There simply has to be a full English breakfast available and, being fair, a lot of service stations get this right. However, at the price that is charged on the road, we should be able to guarantee the provenance of all the pork (outdoor bred and raised) and the eggs must be free range (and I mean small flock, encouraged to feed outside, no nasty chemicals used). There simply has to be Black pudding - cooked to order not allowed to turn into cardboard on a hot plate.
As the cafeteria has to be open for 24 hours a day, it has to serve real meals. What on earth is wrong with the British classics here - Bangers and Mash (with some proper veg), Ham, Egg and Chips and a really good Pie (yes the crust is supposed to go the whole way round)
On to salads - I don't need to say much here except "Go to France and look at what they can do on the road" (Grated carrots, dressed with a little lemon juice and garnished with poppy seeds and toasted almonds, roast vegetables with pesto dressing, grated celeriac with a wholegrain mustard mayonnaise, etc, etc)
While we're on the subject of France why are Confit of Duck, Tartiflette, and the like never available at the British roadside. These are quite cheap to produce compared with a Steak and Kidney Pie and are perfect for filling up the weary traveller.
I need to stop now else I shall rant for hours, but I will leave you with this one thought: There will be no need for the owners of these service stations to change unless people demand it. As with so much in the food industry, people can change behaviour by voting with their feet (or tires in this case)!
When I started this blog, I set out to be positive and for this reason I don't want to dwell on the problem of motorway services but I'd like to put forward some ideas for solving these issues. There are several really wonderful service stations on our roads but there are simply too few.
"So," I hear you ask, "what would the perfect service station look like then?"
Well, first and foremost I wouldn't ban fast food, but if we have a burger bar, why not one serving real, possibly organic burgers and real chips cut from potatoes (we could even leave the skin on and really blow people's minds). Of course the ingredients would have to be local and made by people who really care about the food they are making and serving. With the growth in high quality street food at the moment this is not some kind of dream, this can be done.
Then comes the coffee shop - There is a very positive reason why there are some mega-brands in this market - they often serve great coffee! What my perfect service station would have, however, would be a small, independent supplier of coffee (yes they do exist) and again I'd like a bit of traceability and, of course we would be talking Fair Trade here.
Now the real problem: The Cafeteria. There simply has to be a full English breakfast available and, being fair, a lot of service stations get this right. However, at the price that is charged on the road, we should be able to guarantee the provenance of all the pork (outdoor bred and raised) and the eggs must be free range (and I mean small flock, encouraged to feed outside, no nasty chemicals used). There simply has to be Black pudding - cooked to order not allowed to turn into cardboard on a hot plate.
As the cafeteria has to be open for 24 hours a day, it has to serve real meals. What on earth is wrong with the British classics here - Bangers and Mash (with some proper veg), Ham, Egg and Chips and a really good Pie (yes the crust is supposed to go the whole way round)
On to salads - I don't need to say much here except "Go to France and look at what they can do on the road" (Grated carrots, dressed with a little lemon juice and garnished with poppy seeds and toasted almonds, roast vegetables with pesto dressing, grated celeriac with a wholegrain mustard mayonnaise, etc, etc)
While we're on the subject of France why are Confit of Duck, Tartiflette, and the like never available at the British roadside. These are quite cheap to produce compared with a Steak and Kidney Pie and are perfect for filling up the weary traveller.
I need to stop now else I shall rant for hours, but I will leave you with this one thought: There will be no need for the owners of these service stations to change unless people demand it. As with so much in the food industry, people can change behaviour by voting with their feet (or tires in this case)!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
