Toad in the Hole with London Pride

For me, one of the greatest of British comfort foods is Toad in the Hole. Opinion is divided as to what should be in the perfect toad and there is considerable evidence that this dish was originally made with all kinds of meats. Lamb cutlets. beef topside, pork cheeks and, of course, sausages. In essence, as with everything that involves Yorkshire pudding batter, it was a way of making an expensive piece of meat fill more bellies than it probably should.

For those of you who are reading from outside the UK a little explanation on Yorkshire pudding is required. It is actually a very simple flat pancake batter; the sort you would use for Crepes. Just a simple mix of eggs, flour and milk. This is then added to a hot deep roasting tray (one could use the tray that the meat has been roasted in as it rests on the side) or a muffin tin for individual Yorkies. Either way the fat has to be fearfully hot before the batter is added. Traditionally Yorkshire pudding was served only with beef and also sometimes as a starter with gravy to lower the appetite for the expensive meat mail course.   

This is a classic, and with all classics, less is more! Don't mess with near perfection.

Toad in the Hole. (Serves 2)

• 4 good large Butcher's Sausages. 
• Plain Flour. 
• Milk. 
• 1 egg. 
• Salt and pepper

Sieve about 200 gms of flour into a bowl and add enough milk to make it the consistency of single cream add the egg and beat in - DO NOT OVER WHISK - its not a meringue!

Gently fry the sausages, just to seal them then pop them in a high sided roasting tin with a little nugget of lard, dripping, or oil with a high burn point. Pop them in a hot oven and let them sizzle for about 5 minutes. The fat in the tin needs to be really hot, almost smoking. Pull out the tin and pour in the batter so that the edges sizzle and bubble a little. Then its back in the oven and enjoy the magic of a rising Yorkshire pudding. Serve when it is crisp on top and has a bit of fluff underneath. Make sure there is something green and squeaky to go with it and lashings of onion gravy.

For the Toad in thepicture has some streaky bacon wrapped round the sausages, this is not a necessity but I had some spare. I also served it with peas as I didn't have any greens. (I have lifted a lot of this recipe from my previous post of this recipe)

The Match

A British classic dish deserves a classic British beer. I decided to match this dish with another British classic: Fullers London Pride. When I first moved to London for University in 1987 you were either A Young's fan or a Fullers drinker. They were the two largest independent breweries in London. Youngs in Wandsworth and Fullers in Chiswick.

Only Fullers remains and it is now owned by  Asahi, but still brrewing in the same manner. London Pride is named after a little flower which is the first to grow in ruins or land broken up with bricks and rocks. It was particularly important during the Blitz for obvious reasons. It was also the first beer I ever pulled from the cask with a beer engine.

It is a classic "Best Bitter". It is tawny in colour and on the nose it gives clear malt spine with a subtle English hop herby high notes. On the palate it has a sweet maltiness balanced with bitter hops. Nothing about this beer is overdone, all is in balance.

It was a super match with the toad; the malt matched the savour of the batter with just enough hop edge to cut through the fattiness of the sausages. the gravy sat up with the sweetness and reclined with the malt!  

Chicken liver parfait and Toast / Coop Hazy Pale Ale

 Parfait is a pate that is blitzed up after having been cooked, it is very smooth and packed full of livery flavour. I always like to think of this as a dish to make for a lazy lunch before a Six Nations decider! I have also made a Youtube video of the process. (link below)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SH0BW5zkZwI&t=533s400gms Chicken Livers

20 gms Butter (cut up into cubes) 50 gms Butter 20 gms Butter Small glass of booze (Sherry, Madeira, Whisky, Rum, Brandy)(optional) Salt Ground Black Pepper Black Peppercorns Pop the 20gms of butter into a hot frying pan. Melt and allow the butter to start foaming. Add the chicken livers and fry (they will spit and bubble) until they are completely cooked on the outside but still a little pink in the middle. Deglaze with the booze (if using) and allow the alcohol to burn off. Add the livers, the cubed butter and the pan juices into a blender and blend until it is smooth (go a little bit longer than you think). Divide up the parfait up between a handful of bowls or ramekins and smooth the surface down. Pop in the fridge for 20 minutes or so. Remove the parfaits from the fridge and cast a few black peppercorns over the top of each one. Melt the remaining butter and pour over the parfaits. Return to the fridge for 24 hours and serve with toast. The toast was made from a raisin and walnut loaf which I made with this particular pate in mind, the recipe will be part of a later post.

The Match

Toast Beers grew from a pressure group / charity called Feed Back. This was the brain child of Tristram Stuart. It was set up in order to encourage people and companies to stop wasting food. His TED talk of 2012 is still very much worth watching to gain some perspective on the level of food waste globally.

https://www.ted.com/talks/tristram_stuart_the_global_food_waste_scandal?language=en

After realising that a great deal of bread was being wasted the team at Feed Back realised that it could be used as an adjunct in brewing and thus fed back into the system.

The mantra that if you want to beat those who are trying to destroy the earth, you have to throw a better party than they are has never rung more true!

This is the gang that were responsible for the Cop 26 box which I blogged about a couple of years ago, they are the kings and queens of collaboration. They have worked with bread producers, other breweries and in this case. high street retailers.

So, to the beer itself: This is a bit of a juicy one very much like a tuned down New England IPA. A citrusy, almost tropical nose gives way to sensible malt backbone. A neat finish with a clean dry edge makes it a lovely match for the parfait. The citrus notes cut the fat of the butter and the richness of the pate giving a clean finish. The malt spine matches up with bread and draws the whole dish together.

Cheese board and Westmalle Dubbel

 Your dinner has been a screaming success, the meal you spent hours on has been greeted with the right amount of "oooohs, argghs" and "how did you make the sauces?". The only thing left is the cheeseboard and what to serve with it!

Before I go on I must put a point of view out here. Traditional French cooking is my usual start point for all things food related and in France they would generally have the cheese course before the pudding and in many ways this is a good idea. However, I think this is one of those things that we Brits get right. A good cheese board is the perfect grazing plate and, when served at the end of the meal, allows everyone to relax and chat on into the small hours whilst helping themselves to little mouthfuls.

Let us first deal with what a good cheeseboard looks like: Primarily, you do not need 14 cheeses on your board. A maximum of 4 different cheeses is all that is required. This will not only make your shopping simple but also mean that you can buy large enough lumps of cheese to make for good keeping. 

Moving on to the carbohydrate: Bread or crackers are both fine. Normally I would make the decision based on what has happened in the meal previously. Balance is everything here. For this board I chose crackers, specifically, Stockan's Oatcakes and Miller's elements Ale (which contain hops). Again, don't feel the need to put 25 different types of crackers on the board, you will simply end up with 25 stale half packs three weeks later.

The other bits on the board are really up to personal choice; though classics would include dried fruit, celery sticks and nuts.  

The cheeses I chose were as follows

• Snowdonia Black Bomber
• St Marcelin
• Highmoor

The Match

It is very easy to fall back on old friends like Port and Madeira though be careful around red wines as often they are a poor match for cheese ( I promise you this is the case). However, this is all about beer so to beer we must look.

Trappist beers are are made within monasteries. Not only do they have to be made in specific holy places but the Monks must be involved in the brewing. This is monitored very strictly and often producers are removed from the list, so it is very difficult to give an exact number of Trappist breweries at any given time. Suffice to say, it's around 15. I must also emphasise at this point that "Trappist" isn't a style of beer it simply denotes the location and the manpower involved.

Westlmalle Dubbel is one of the more available Trappist beers with quite large production. It is very dark brown with a reddish tint. It kicks in at 7% so its not for the faint hearted. It uses secondary fermentation in the bottle and produces a light brown head of foam. On the nose it has a lot of fruit and spice with herbal hints. (almost a dandelion and burdock smell, honestly). On the palate it is rich and sweet with more dried fruit flavours. There is a very clear malt spine in the beer, rich and like wholemeal bread. The finish is both bitter and dry without being too much.

I was very pleased with how it matched the cheese and would happily do this match again.  

Pub Lasagne and Hacker Pschorr, Oktoberfest Marzen

It's controversy time. Not only is Lasagne itself controversial, but one of its ingredients, the Bolognaise sauce, is its own controversy too. Let's start with the sauce:

Bolognaise does not really exist. It's a made up name for a meat and tomato Ragu for pasta. We Brits have taken the idea of a beef and tomato sauce added spaghetti and created a meal that has graces dinner tables all over the country. It has become the ultimate student dish owing to the fact that it can be made reasonably cheaply and batch cooked to gain economies of scale. The interesting thing about this sauce is that so many people claim to have the authentic recipe leading to all sorts of weird arguments and complaints.

Should I use pork and beef mince? Or even veal? Should I use red wine , white wine or just stock? Onion? Garlic? Both? Fresh tomatoes or tins? Beef stock or chicken or even vegetable? There is a plethora of choices and questions on route to the perfect bolognaise sauce. 

Dear reader, let me assure you that it simply does not matter. There is no authentic sauce here. This is, in effect, peasant food, Cucina povera, so work with what is in your fridge. You can go quite light on the meat and bulk up with vegetables and add all kinds of bits and bobs you find. In the past I have added bacon (often), chopped up black pudding (you must try this) and even leftover steak (so very good). As long as the sauce is based on tomato and is thick enough to coat pasta then all is good. By the way, it tends to be much better if it is served with ribbons (taggliatelle, linguine, etc) rather than spag.

And now another controversy: The other sauce. This should probably be a bechamel, made with infused milk, however, I tend to go with a cheese sauce albeit made from scratch. 

You can buy posh fresh pasta sheets or even roll your own but my recipe uses dried.

Pub Lasagne (for a large bunch of people)

• 1kg meat (mince, cooked roast leftovers, little bit of bacon, black pudding)
• Glug of oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 medium carrots, finely chopped
• 2 celery sticks, finely chopped
• 3 to 6 garlic cloves very finely chopped
• 2 tins of plum tomatoes
• 2 beef stock cubes
• 1 small glass of dry sherry
• Salt, pepper, thyme, Oregano.
• 1 large squirt of tomato puree
• 60gms plain flower
• 60gms butter
• 500ml full fat milk
• 200gm mature cheddar
• Dried pasta sheet.

The ragu - Add the oil to a large saucepan ans place over a high heat. when the oil is hot add all of the chopped veg except the garlic. Cook until the tiniest amount of brown is appearing. Remove the veg and pop in a bowl. Now add the beef in batches to brown off, adding the browned meat to the veg. When all the meat is ready add all the meat and veg to the pan with the garlic. Throw in the sherry and allow it to boil for a couple of minutes, then add the tomatoes and stock cubes and a little water. Bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and leave on a low heat, gently simmering for a couple of hours, topping up with water if necessary. Add the herbs after about an hour.

The cheese sauce - Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and add the flout. thoroughly mix these with a wooden spoon to form a roux and cook for just two minutes. Add a splash of milk and mix like crazy, then another splash slightly larger, again mixing vigorously. ( You may want to switch to a whisk at some stage) Keep adding more and more milk until you have a smooth sauce that coats the back of a spoon. Add the grated cheese stir it in to melt and season with pepper.

Construction - In a huge tin, layer up the lasagne with alternate sauces and pasta sheets until it is full. Make sure your last layer is the cheese sauce. If you have any cheese left sprinkle it over the top then put the whole thing in the oven for 20 minutes. Place in the middle of the table with a big bowl of salad and allow your friends to tuck in.

The Match 

Hacker Pschorr Marzen Oktoberfest is a version of the original beer of the Oktoberfest. Around 1990 the beer of Oktoberfest became the light strong lager we know today as Festbier. However, before that time the beer of chpice for this event was Marzen. It is much more amber than the straw colour of the Festbier, much more like a Vienna lager. It has a lovely nose of nettles, mild spices and herbs. On the palate it is biscuity and doughy but quite rich too. It has a lovely clean finish and despite an abv of nearly 6% it is very drinkable. I chose this beer to match the lasagne because it will cut through the richness of the cheese and pasta whilst matching up to the meaty fullness of the ragu. It also has the feel that you cuold be in a pub with a really solid meal and a pint!

Tri tip steak and Hop Back, Summer Lightning

 The cooking of steak is a subject that is full of controversy. I am not going to dictate how anyone should cook their steak because it will inevitably just lead to an argument, Suffice is to say that you need to please yourself on this issue. Just do it the way that makes you happy!

However, I am here to tell you that there is a lot more to steak than the usual Fillet, Sirloin, Rump, Rib eye hegemony. So here are the instructions:

a) Buy your meat from a butcher who can tell you how long the meat has been hung.

b) Talk to you butcher about the less expensive steaks: bavette, onglet, feather, tri tip etc

c) After you have cooked it to your liking, leave it alone for a surprisingly long time before you serve it. This is science not affectation!

Tri tip comes from the front end of the Sirloin and is sold a triangular looking lump, it is, halfway between a steak and a roasting joint. One side of the steak usually has a layer of fat across it. Consequently I cooked it partly on the hob and partly in the oven. I must stress again, this is the way I like to cook a tri tip, perfectly reasonable people can have other opinions, especially about things such as salt.

Tri tip Steak

• 1 tri tip steak
•  High quality salt
• Ground black pepper
• Oil or dripping with a high burn point.
• Aluminium foil

First and foremost make sure that your steak is taken out of the fridge long before you intend to cook it, I cannot stress how much difference this makes. Turn on your oven and set it to 240 degrees centigrade. Pop a heavy frying pan on the hob and get it "smoking hot". Rub the steak with a little oil, sprinkle with salt and lay it in the pan, fat side down. Leave it alone for 2 or 3 minutes, then turn it over for 2 minutes more. Lift it and seal the edges one at a time for a minute or so. You should now have a lump of beef with a lovely salty bark on it

The steak now needs to go into the oven for between 8 and 12 minutes depending on your preference. Just before you put it in add a twist of pepper. Now remove the steak put it on a board and cover with the foil. Leave it alone for 10 minutes - I mean it, a full ten minutes!

Carve the steak into thick slices and serve with a salad or chips!

For the record, I had this with salad only simply didn't need the chips.

(If you are making a sauce for this pour any juices from the board into it)

The Match

I first encountered Summer lightening on Cricket tour in the late 90's, and I have always had a bit of a soft spot for it ever since. It is not an over statement to suggest that this beer started a new beer style, Summer Ale. It comes in at a punchy 5% so it is not to be taken lightly. On the nose it has an almost lemony hit (but not in an American IPA way). On the palate, the lighter malts used hold their own and give the beer great balance. The finish is clean but not overly sharp or astringent. It manages to be both light and very much an English Ale. This is not just for summer drinking.

A darker, richer beer might have been more obvious, but I was serving this with a salad in a citrus dressing and the match up seemed perfect. Even if you were to build it up with chips or mash the malty body of the beer would be perfectly comfortable with the dish 

"Silly chilli chicken Thai noodle soup" with Hoegaarden

 This is not, by any stretch of the imagination, an authentic recipe. This grew out of a desire to produce a light supper with some punch that felt like it was doing you some good. In essence it is a simple, spicy noodle soup with caramelised chicken on top!

Before you do anything you need to bone out and skin your chicken thighs. (You could buy these already prepared but you will miss out on a couple of things: Bones for the stock and skin to garnish. However, these are not critical to the recipe). This will take a little more time than you think but you get much quicker with practice.

This is one of those dishes that can simply make you feel a bit better. The name grew over a couple of drunken discussions about what this delicious soup should be called.

Silly Chilli chicken Thai noodle soup

• 4 Chicken thighs (boned and skinned)
• 3 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
• 2 tsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
• 3 tsp soy sauce
• 1 ltr vegetable or chicken stock (made with cubes is fine)
• 2 red chillies
• 3 cloves of garlic
• 3 or 4 coins cut from from a ginger root
• 2 slices of lime zest
• 1 bunch leaf coriander
• 2 or 3 spring onions
• Two "nests" of dried noodles (you can use fresh ones too)

Cut the thighs into pieces about the size of the last knuckle on your thumb and pop them in a bowl with the sweet chilli sauce, sesame oil, fish sauce and soy sauce. If it looks a bit dry, add a tiny bit more of all the sauces. pop this in the fridge for at least an hour, though it wouldn't hurt if it was overnight.

put the stock into a large saucepan and bring to the boil (you can add the bones to this is you have done the hard graft!). Roughly chop up the chilli, and garlic. through them with the ginger bits and lime zest into the hot stock, skins an' all! Cut the stalk of the coriander about two cm from the bottom and add them too. Keep this broth at a simmer for an hour or so.  

Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions and refresh under a cold tap until there is no warmth left in them. Split the noodles between two bowls and leave aside.

After an hour or so, strain the broth into another saucepan and keep it hot on the hob. 

Grab a frying pan and get it really hot before adding a tiny amount of neutral oil. Pour in the chicken. I will spit and fizzle. Do not panic, this is good. Cool the chicken until all the marinade is starting to caramelise around the pieces. Be brave here, the coating should be a deep mahogany in colour.

Pour the broth over the noodles so that they are just peeking out and share the chicken over them so that it appears to be floating. Chop up the spring onions and sprinkle over the top with a small handful of the coriander leaves. Serve with soy sauce.

If you have the skins, sprinkle a little salt over them and roast them in the oven until they are crisp. Either add them as garnishes or secretly eat them in the kitchen and tell nobody, your secret is safe with me.

The Match

Hoegaarden is a Belgium wheat beer. This means that around half of the grain bill in production is wheat rather than malted barley. Unlike German wheat beer the wheat is not malted but goes into the mash tun simply dried. This means that the beer is very pale hence the generic name "wit" or white. Again the Germans are very strict about adding anything strange to their beer (since 1516!). The Belgium approach is a bit more lax so they often add interesting flavours. In the case of Hoegaarden, coriander and orange zest are added and a clearly there in the flavour profile. Further to this, owing to the yeast used there are some lovely spicy phenols present which match up well with South East Asian flavours in the soup. There is a very low level of hop flavours which can cause the heat of chilli to be ramped up, so there will be no 3rd degree burns here. The beer is very highly carbonated which can have a similar effect but the carbonation here is so soft and fluffy that is should cause no problems.

Pork Schnitzel and Camden Pale Ale

 Nobody would be surprised if a blogger decided to write about matching food with wine. The joys of matching Cru Classe Pauillac with roast rack of lamb or a Sancerre with a Friuts de mer are obvious, but when it comes to beer, there are very few people who will confidently say that they matched their dinner with lovely Gose or their pudding worked really well with a Wee Heavy! There are, of course exceptions to this: Garrett Oliver's book "The Brewmaster's Table" being a notable example. However, there are also some who believe that food and beer is not an idea that needs any consideration, these are the people who believe that the matching of food and drink starts and finishes with the question "cheese and onion or salt and vinegar?"

For the next year I am going to attempt to match a beer with my dinner for one day every weekend. The idea is that I will produce a recipe and its beer match, with a rationale for my choices This may not work every time and I will try to be honest about my mistakes. This starts today. 

I have been making Schnitzel for many years, the dish originates in Austria (though the Germans dispute this), and is really some meat beaten flat, bread crumbed and fried. It is very seldom served with noodles (extra points if you get the reference) The classic schnitzel is made with veal but mine is made with pork tenderloin. Incidentally, veal in the UK is no longer the ethical nightmare it was thirty years ago. No calves are kept in crates and their life is much longer and more pleasant. From the best producers is now reared outdoors when possible and actually makes the dairy industry much more ethically sound and profitable.

Pork Schnitzel

• One Pork Tenderloin
• Two Eggs
• Dash of Milk
• A handful of Plain Flour
• Bread crumbs (Plenty)
• One Un-waxed Lemon
• Salt and Pepper
• Neutral Oil for frying

Carefully slice of the silverskin membrane of the side of the tenderloin, then slice the tenderloin into 8 discs. place each of the discs between two pieces of clingfilm. Beat the meat pieces flat with a meat mallet or a rolling pin until they are 6 or 7 mm thick. 

Time for bread crumbing. Take three wide bowls. In bowl number one place the flour, seasoned with salt and pepper. Bowl number 2 has both of the eggs beaten with a dash of milt and a twist of salt. Finally in Bowl number three place the breadcrumbs and grate the zest of the lemon over and mix.

Carefully, unwrap your little fillets and pop then, first into the flour (making sure they are coated) then into the egg (to produce a flour and egg glue on the surface of the meat) and finally into the breadcrumbs to coat.

Schnitzels ready to fry.

Place them on the side for a few minutes to ensure that the breadcrumbs have properly attached themselves!

Pour a slick of the oil into a frying pan and fry the Schnitzels in batches of two or three. 

In the frying pan.

Serve with coleslaw or new boiled potatoes (not noodles).

The Match.

I decided to pair the Schnitzel with Camden Pale. This beer is fast becoming a modern classic. It is clearly inspired by modern American Pale ales and IPAs. However, despite the use of American hops (Citra, Simcoe and Perle) it is quite restrained and not at all piney or full of resin on the nose. There is also a light malt backbone which seems to bring us safely back to its UK roots. 

I felt that the citrus from the lemons would resonate with the the same flavours in the hops and the fried breadcrumb coating would match the maltiness in the beer. I took the beer down to fridge temperature and served it in a stemmed tulip glass.