Thursday, 16 December 2010

Christmas 12 - Breakfast on Boxing day.

I've decided to step away from veg and give some of my readers what they want - Eggs Benadict!
This is not the slimline version of anything! I don't make this to any specific numbered recipe but if you want weights and measures I'm sure there are recipes on line.

Eggs Benadict for 4

8 eggs
3 egg yolks
4 large slices of ham
Butter
4 English muffins
Lemon juice
Salt and Pepper

Poach the eight eggs (this can be done the night before and the eggs kept in cold water in the fridge to be warmed up the following day). Pop the yolks into a bowl over just simmering water, add a tablespoon of lemon juice and whisk until incorporated. Add a thumbnail size piece of butter and whisk until blended in - keep doing this until the sauce is thick but still "pour-ble". It is vital that you do not allow the sauce to overheat or you will have scrambled eggs. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. This will keep warm for ages.
Split, toast and butter the muffins, pop the ham on top, pop a couple of hot eggs on to and pour over ooozy ribbons of the sauce.

I hope this does it for you!

Tuesday, 14 December 2010

Parnips - Christmas 11

The Octogenarian Next Door Neighbour always reminds us during a cold snap that "this is nothing like the winter of '62/3" and looking at some archive footage it appears he's not wrong. In fact, during this winter there was such a worry over whether there would be enough food for the nation that construction industry was told to lend it pneumatic concrete breakers to farmers in order that they might harvest parsnips and keep Britain from hunger.
Also, during the six years of the second world war and for many of the years of rationing after a bizarre paste was made from parsnips which went by the name of "Mock Banana" My father assures me it was truly revolting, but there you go.
I don't believe that any winter roast dinner is complete without the roast parsnip. They could not be simpler to prepare. There is no need to pre-boil simply pop them around the roast at the same time you pop your par boiled spuds in (about 50 minutes before serving the meal). The only question you have to ask is what shape will you cut them? Long and tapered (making them look stylish but running the risk of a burnt end) or in chunky lumps (making them cook evenly but running the risk of them being mistaken for spuds).
There is one truth about parsnips and cold - they really should not be lifted from the ground until they have had a hard frost on them - it breaks down the woodiness and makes them very sweet. I don't think lack of frost will be a problem this year!

Monday, 13 December 2010

Christmas 10 - Carrots


I love carrots, in fact it appears that most of the world loves carrots - if you don't believe me, watch the crudites at the next party you go to, I will guarantee that the carrots will be the first chosen to dip in the humus or other dips. Yet, as with all heroes, the humble carrot is underrated and even abused. This injustice must stop!

As with all greats - don't mess with a classic! Don't even consider par cooking the carrot, there are only two ways to eat your carrots - raw or fully cooked.

For the big day simply boil the carrots (either as rounds or batons) and toss in a little butter and maybe some celery salt. If you must, boil cooked carrots briefly in a little butter and a splash of orange juice, but its really not necessary.

During the 70's and 80's my wonderful mother, who is both indestructible and a fine cook used to mix grated carrot, grated cheese, spring onions and salad cream in a bowl and serve it as a side salad. This all seems a little lacking in finesse now but it did depend on the wonderful natural sweetness of carrots. Below is a bit of and upgrade and would be lovely with cold cuts on Boxing Day!


Carrot salad

Carrots
Lemon juice
Poppy seeds
Sliced almonds

Peel grate the carrots into a bowl, squeeze out some of the water. Add the juice and poppy seeds. Toast the almond slivers in a frying pan until just turning brown and pop in a bowl to cool. Serve the salad with your cold cuts on Boxing Day adding the almonds at the very last moment so they don't go soft. The lemon juice is there to lift the sweetness of the carrots, lime juice would also work as would raspberry vinegar.

If you make only one New Year's resolution for 2011 let it be that you will never again take the humble, wonderful, madly colourful carrot for granted again!

Sunday, 12 December 2010

Christmas dinner - The trial run (AKA Christmas 9)

So, for lunch, you roasted a chicken and tried out all the veg that you were apprehensive about and you now have a rather beaten up chicken carcass. Follow the instructions on here for the 15th November and then having allowed your stock to cool, freeze it. This is a huge step towards wonderful gravy.
I hope you enjoyed the roast potatoes - the only problem you face now is that there is no going back to leathery, tasteless spuds, you have been spoiled.
So what for the coming week?
This week I will be mainly blogging about vegetables!
I know there are now thousands of you checking daily into how to cook the festive feast - It would be lovely to hear some comments from any of you, come on don't be shy...
Keep warm.

Friday, 10 December 2010

Christmas 8 - Roast Potatoes

I haven't blogged for a couple of days in order to give you chance to buy your chestnuts - you have bought them by now I take it? How many times do you have to be told?
Anyway my tip for tonight as all about spuds (No, Recovering Vegetarian its not all about the coursework!)
Every celebrity chef and food writer will tell you that there is only one way to make roast potatoes and you need flour, polenta, semolina, a particular type of potato grown only on the Gower Peninsula and fat taken only from geese called Fred. This, of course, is complete nonsense.
To make beautiful roast potatoes you need two things - potatoes and high quality fat. Goose fat is great, but so is duck fat and don't knock lard until you've tried it.

Corner Cottage Roast Potatoes

Main Crop Potatoes
Fat

Peel and cut your spuds into chunks which you could eat in three bites. Pop these into cold salted water and bring to the boil. Boil for 7 minutes then take off the heat and leave for 5. Strain the potatoes (keeping the water to help enrich your gravy if it needs it). Pop the spuds back into their pan, put the lid on and give them one big shake so that all the edges crumble up a bit.
Now concentrate. If it is a clear cool evening, pop your pan (without the lid) outside in the cool air for 5-10 minutes. Yes, yes I know this sounds bonkers but it will help them fully steam off and become dry - much better for roasting!
Your fat should be hot and the potatoes should be tossed into the roasting pan (please be careful - Christmas evening in A&E is not a great place to spend a couple of hours.) Roast the spuds at the same temperature as your roast flesh for 30 minutes then turn them (once only mind) and pop them back for another 20 minutes.

The truth is if they are not wonderful people will notice - The roast potato is a thing of great beauty and if you don't deliver people will talk. Its worse top serve bad roasties than bad meat - trust me I've done both!

Tuesday, 7 December 2010

Christmas 7 - Do you want the good news or....

Made any plans for Sunday? If so cancel them. (You need to be imagining that I'm using my most stern "Teacher Voice" here)
On Sunday you are going to do a Christmas trial run!
You are going to roast a chicken. "Why" you ask "why oh why do I need to make a roast dinner this close to the actual day?"
Well here's why:

1. You haven't yet made the stuffing I told you to make a week ago.
2. You haven't yet made any braised red cabbage for your freezer - I told you to do this months ago.
3. You really need to make a good chicken stock and freeze it for your gravy on the big day.
4. You might want to try out one or two of the vegetables you fancy for the big day.
5. Sauce! You need to make sure you have enough pots, pans and roasting trays for the big day.

You do not need to do all the trimmings for this Sunday's roast - If you have a great method for carrots, then it does not need re-hashing this weekend. But if you thinking of trying something new with your parsnips then this is the time to give it a go. I think we'll save the pigs in blankets for the 25th too.

Monday, 6 December 2010

Christmas 6 - "Egg and chips time"

My school rugby coach once caught me looking at the opposition as they arrived off their coach. He made a statement of such glaring clarity and simplicity to anyone who has worn a number 12 or 13 jersey that it has always stayed with me. He said "Don't focus on the players they have, focus on the gaps between them."
Last Summer a colleague of mine retired. She taught Chemistry and is moving into the Lay Ministry in her retirement. She always spoke of a time shortly after Christmas when she was completely fed up with Roast fare and simply craved Egg and Chips. In this The Christian Scientist was echoing a feeling that many of us get at Yule.
It is essential that you have your version of Egg and chips in store before you embark on the collective turkey lunacy.
For me it is Risotto rice and some stock cubes which simply must be there. For others, it will be pasta and tomato sauce or maybe a baked potato.
Shop early for these staples, and you will always be able to deal with your own moment when enough is enough.

Sunday, 5 December 2010

The Kitchen Audit - Christmas 5

I did it today and you must too. I did a kitchen audit! This is not a spring clean this is a check on what you have in. This is important in order to save you from the dreaded double purchase through the festive season.
Remember that jar of chutney that Auntie Doris gave you at the end of September? You don't need to buy a commercial jar to go with your cold cuts on Boxing day.
Remember all that dried fruit you bought for that Birthday cake? That's your mince pie filling sorted.
Check the pickles you bought in the summer for picnics, if they're still fine then don't buy any more for cold turkey.
Mustard, salt, pepper, stock cubes, flour, and many more things are in need of checking.
Please remember that the shops are only closed for a few days, its not a 6 month siege!

Saturday, 4 December 2010

Christmas 4 - "The Roast beast"

Its make your mind up time! You have to decide which piece of flesh you are going to roast on the 25th. Many years ago I left the purchase of the festive bird until the 24th. I visited 6 supermarkets and 2 butchers before I was able to find a Duck for the Beautiful Wife and I to enjoy on the day. I then made the mistake of doing exactly the same the following year. This, of course became a standing joke - "...can't wait to see you heading off on your Christmas eve forage again..." Since then I have always ordered a bird (or on one occasion a couple of ribs of beef).
So the message is get out there and order, right away.
Time for a bit of a rant here - This meal happens once a year. This meal may be the only time you all get together. This meal is the meal you look forward to for ages. Then why, oh why would you purchase a cheap, intensively reared bird which has been filled with chemicals and then frozen with added water. Order free range bird and if you're not sure about a bird then you must ask. Yes, yes you will have to pay a lot for it but you will get a real feast not a protein fix. Save money by not buying one bottle of silly liqueur that you'll never drink anyway!
The wonderful Nigel Slater did a programme earlier this week about the cheaper cuts of meat. This is where its at people - belly pork, neck fillet of lamb, chicken thighs, shin of beef, duck legs and so on. My only hope is that these will remain cheap and not go the way of the Lamb shank. I mentioned, to the Beautiful Wife, that the Lamb shank used to be cheap and, as soon as people found out that it was the best flavoured part of the lamb, it became the star on every gastro pub's menu. The price rocketed and now its a treat rather than a staple. She instantly replied "that must be the lamb shank redemption then!"

Friday, 3 December 2010

Christmas 3 - Dealing with the fuss pots

I've just been talking to my Upper sixth group (Rising 18, last year in school, for anyone who doesn't speak fluent English education) I asked them what they felt was the most important part of the Christmas meal. They each came up with a single idea then, as if somebody had flipped a switch they started to yell out random food words ("Pigs in blankets!!" "Stuffing...sooooo good!!!" "Parsnips gatta have parsnips!!!" "It is so all about the gravy" and so on) becoming more and more animated, shouting out their own feast ideas until I thought there might be a riot - It would make a change from them rioting about University fees.

I don't think that my students are that different from any other group of people at this time, everybody has a favourite bit of the meal and will defend it with a vigour bordering on the psychotic. The key to keeping yourself sane through this period is planning - If you have any fussy eaters coming to the feast, have the conversation about what they do and don't eat this evening - No don't let it ruin the weekend, pick up the phone now!

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Secrets (AKA Christmas 2)

In this era of Wikileaks and disclosure I thought I ought to tell you the greatest secret of serving drinks during the dead of winter. Obviously you have to promise to only tell those people who you can really trust...

So, my thousands of readers, here it is -

Mulled Cider is much, much nicer than Mulled Wine. Its true! The Germans can keep their wine with glue, the French can keep their Alpine "Hot wine" we Brits should be drinking a warm goblet of the West Country's finest. So your task for today is to buy a couple of 2 ltr plastic bottles of cider (I use Strongbow) and hide them under the stairs. These can be brought out when required (unexpected guests, carol singers, etc) and turned into a mull in a very short period of time.

The advantages of Cider over wine are -
Its cheaper
It has less alcohol (so less bitterness)
You don't need to add any fruit.

Mulled Cider
2ltr Dry cider
Spices (Cinnamon, cloves, sliced root ginger, or even star anise)
250mls water
Sugar to taste (try a dark muscavado or demmarera for some richness)

Add all the ingredients to a large pan and bring up to the boil without allowing it to bubble. Keep the liquid just below the boil for 20 minutes to allow the spices to work their magic. Serve in goblets, punch glasses or even mugs.

Wednesday, 1 December 2010

Countdown to Christmas 1

So here we go then - let the madness and the nonsense begin!

Today you need to buy chestnuts - no I don't mean this weekend I mean today, on your way home and make sure you buy two packs. If you leave it too late they will be sold out and all it needs is a Nigella or a Rick to suggest a stuffing full of chestnuts and there will be none left in Europe. (Remember Delia and "The Great Christmas Cranberry crisis").

Your first pack is for your stuffing. This can be made any time this week, then frozen. All you have to do is then move it from the freezer to the fridge on Christmas Eve then into the oven for the last 40 minutes of cooking the roast.

Stuffing

Everyone has a recipe for "The best ever stuffing" but for goodness sake people - KEEP IT SIMPLE! All the volumes are general here as there is so much personal preference involved in this.

Your favourite Butchers sausages (taken out of their skins)
One pack of Chestnuts
A handful of breadcrumbs (three slices of bread in a low oven for 40 minutes then blitzed)
A large egg
Herbs (especially sage)
One large onion
Salt and Pepper

Finely chop the onion and very gently fry in a little oil. When the onion is just about to take some colour take it off the heat and pop it in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and mix thoroughly (hands really are your best tool for this). Smooth the mix into a shallow oven proof dish cover and freeze.
Allow to thoroughly defrost before cooking in the oven at a medium heat for 40 minutes.
There is so much scope for putting your own touches in this dish - dried fruit, garlic, chili, and any spices you fancy.

"So" I hear you ask " why use sausages and not just buy sausage meat? Well if you have found a sausage you like (In my case Newitt's Oxfordshire) then why take the risk of some random sausage meat going into your stuffing? You need to be aware that, for a lot of people, Christmas Lunch is all about the stuffing!

This brings us to the other pack of chestnuts. These are for your Brussels Sprouts.
Early on "the day" cook your sprouts in boiling water till they still have a bit of resistance to biting. (Incidentally don't ever, EVER, EVER cut silly little crosses in the base of each sprout - it will simply turn your sprouts into watery fart bombs). When the sprouts are cooked, refresh them under cold water until quite chilled. 5 minutes before serving pop a couple of rashers of chopped streaky bacon into a frying pan and allow to cook. When the bacon is almost to your liking add a big lump of butter (50gms) your sprouts and your chestnuts. Warm them all through and serve as normal.

Packs of Chestnuts are available vacuum packed in every large supermarket or Deli. Some Supermarkets are now selling them from the freezer counter too.
Stop laughing I'm really serious about doing this today - Don't come crying to me if you're foraging around on Christmas eve with no ingredients.

Monday, 29 November 2010



Yesterday was the last harvest of the year at Corner Cottage. My Chili plants which had done so well finally gave up during the cold weather and I had to strip them before they froze completely.

Though I have the smallest plot of land it is such a joy to grow anything which you then eat. Still I hope that when the days lengthen, there will be the odd piece of food from the garden

The photo here gives you some idea of how cold it has been this weekend, though no snow as of yet.

On Wednesday I shall begin my countdown to Christmas. Every food writer and celeb chef has written a problem free guide to the festivities so I'm not going to try and re-hash that idea. The period around Christmas should naturally be a stress free time - you shouldn't need some TV personality to tell you how to reduce your stress! If you find the whole idea of cooking a big meal stressful then perhaps you should try eating out this Christmas? Let's get real, if you are cooking for your friends and family, are they really going to complain about the main course being 10 minutes late? If they do, don't invite them next year!

Tuesday, 23 November 2010

Silly chilli chicken Thai noodle soup.

So there I was, supping my lunch, and the PE boy came and demanded a spoonful. Then there was raving and lots of yummy yummy noises closely followed by a demand for the recipe. This is one which I made for the Beautiful Wife a while ago and have developed ever since. This is not a soup for polite gentle eating, its a slurpy sloppy conversational dish for in front of the telly - I was following the "Love food, Hate waste " (www.lovefoodhatewaste.com) mantra of taking left over dinner for lunch the next day.

Silly chilli chicken Thai noodle soup

2 Chicken thighs (boned, skinned and cut up into nuggets)
2 pints of chicken stock (made with oxo is fine)
Thumb of Root Ginger
Couple of Garlic cloves
Two or three hot chillies
Soy sauce
Fish sauce (Nam Pla)
Sesame oil
Sweet chilli sauce
Spring onions and carrots, finely sliced
Noodles (I use Wellspring Udon, but whatever you like will do)

Mix a large dollop of the chilli sauce with a serious splash of soy, a less serious splash of the sesame oil and a few drops of the fish sauce. Pop the chicken into this and allow to mingle for a couple of hours.
Boil the stock with the chopped chilli, slices of the ginger and the roughly chopped garlic. This should simmer for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile make sure that your noodles have been cooked and cooled down (follow the instructions on the packet!!)
Fry the Chicken in its marinade - it needs to be cooked through and the marinade should go all sticky and gooey.
Pop some noodles in a bowl, pop the spring onion and carrot on top, pour over some of broth and place a few bits of the chuck on top.
Serve with soy sauce.

Enjoy, Smithy!

Monday, 15 November 2010

Tales from the veg box

The weekend just gone was one of much activity in the kitchen. The beautiful wife decided that, if we were to have a roast then there would be stuffing - she sold it as a trial run for Christmas. Incidentally: buy your chestnuts now as foraging around for them on Christmas eve is very undignified (I speak from experience). A roast was also the opportunity to use up a lot of the veggies from my Abel and Cole box.
So we had a beautiful Roast chicken with...Stuffing (Chestnuts, breadcrumbs, sausage meat from Newitt's Oxford sausage, onions and sage from the garden), roast potatoes, roast parsnip, roast onion, roast garlic, boiled cabbage, boiled carrots, Brussels sprouts and gravy.
Now my favourite thing about roast chicken is all the left over bits! I made a stock from the bones and a pie (with leeks and mushrooms) from the leftover flesh.
The stock was strained and then just about every veg I had left was thrown in (Squash, parsnip, spud, onion, leek, a little bit of celeriac and three rather sorry looking spring onions. This was boiled and blitzed and then some finely shredded cabbage added. This became lunch today with just a sprinkling of Parmesan and breadcrumbs over the top.
I now have enough space for this evening's box. I just need to come up with an idea for all the apples I have!

Chicken Stock

A bowl of chicken stock in the fridge or the freezer makes me think of exciting beginnings and starts. It provides the basis for so much good cooking. Many of the great soups and sauces begin as a bowl of slightly gelatinous opaque liquid quivering in the fridge. Every Celebrity Chef’s cookbook will have a complex recipe which involves skimming, straining and clarifying one hundred and thirty vegetables and bits of chicken. This is fine if you want to cook in a restaurant with three Michelin Stars but we’re just making ourselves some supper!

Ingredients 1 Selection of Chicken Bones (from a single roast bird will be enough)
1 Carrot
1 Onion
5 Black pepper corns
Enough water to cover the bones and vegetables

Put all the ingredients in a large pan and bring to the boil. Boil vigorously for 40 minutes. Allow the stock to cool, perhaps overnight. Bring the stock to the boil once more and boil hard for 10 minutes. Let the stock cool and refrigerate or freeze.

Tuesday, 26 October 2010

...we are the self preservation society..

Ah half term! Time for teachers to stop and take stock (or in my case make stock). Firstly I must apologise to anybody who is reading my blog about the lack of posts lately. Life at school has been a bit fraught and my blog was relegated to the "I'll do that later" pile.
So Sunday was the day I dealt with the great big bag of windfall apples which was given to me by a colleague of my wife's. As most of the apples were cookers I decided to make a spiced apple Jelly (see recipe below) This recipe was inspired by one in a marvelous book published on behalf of the Women's Institute as part of their "Best-kept Secrets" series. This book's recipes have never let me down, its full title is "Best-kept secrets of the Women's institute. Jams, pickles and chutneys" by Midge Thomas.
Further to this I pickled some spiced poached pears (from the organic veggie box) which should prove delicious with some blue cheese around the shortest days of the year.
Finally I re-boiled some marmalade which failed to set in January when I first made it (this was even further down my list). It now has a slightly thicker consistency though still not where I would like it to be.
A photo was taken by the Beautiful Wife at the end of this mammoth preserving session - I'll post it soon!

Spiced Apple Jelly

Apples (preferably cookers) - any amount, chopped up chunky (keeping their skins and cores)
2 or 3 lemons, sliced up
1 long stick of Cinnamon
Tablespoon of cloves
Thumb of root ginger - sliced thinly
Sugar - see method for volume

Place all the ingredients except the sugar in a large pan or preserving pan, add enough water so that the fruit is just all floating. Bring to the boil and, stirring occasionally, simmer for somewhere between 45 minutes and an hour - everything should be very mushy and your house should smell like heaven!
Strain the gloup through a muslin jelly bag (see notes) and allow to drip for a good 4 hours. The liquid in the basin under the the bag should feel slimy when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.
Once it has all drained measure the volume of liquid and return it to the preserving pan. Add sugar in the quantity of one imperial lb for every pint of sugar. Boil until the setting point is reached (see notes) pot in sterilized jars (see notes).
Serve with cold cuts, roast pork, duck or goose or stir into a gravy for any roast; its even great with cheese and biscuits.

Notes
A sheet of muslin can be used if you like, just make sure you can suspend it to hold all the pulp
Setting point occurs when sugar, acid and pectin have all worked their magic and the preserve will set. I use the "cold plate" method for this: Place a couple of cold plates in the freezer for 10 minutes. Pop a small dollop of the preserve on the middle of the cold plate and wait a few seconds. If it wrinkles when pushed with a finger then its ready. With this recipe you will get a feel for setting by looking at the side of the preserving pan.
Sterilizing jars is vital to the storage of your preserve - I wash jars and thoroughly rinse them. I then pop them in a low oven for about 20 minutes and pot up whilst they are still quite warm but not roasting. Strictly speaking one should not re-use the lids but I occasionally sin in this area, but they must be spotlessly clean.


Pickled, poached spiced pears.

Pears
Red wine vinegar
Sugar
Spices (I used cinnamon, cloves and whole allspice)

Peel, core and quarter the pears. (at this point it sometimes helps to pop the quarters in water with a solid glug of lemon juice in it whilst you peeling the rest)
Add all the pears to a pan of simmering water with a couple of tablespoons of sugar in it. Poach them till a knife feels little resistance. Strain the pears, reserving the liquid. Pop the vinegar in a pan adding a few ladles of the poaching liquid and all the spices you fancy. Simmer gently for 20 minutes. Pot the pears in a pretty pattern and add the cooling vinegar and spice mix. Keep to serve as a starter with goats cheese or at the other end of the meal with a robust Blue Stilton.

Further to these I now have a many jars of Pickled Onions all of which will be ready for early December. These are very simple to make but time is required.

Picked Onions

Peel your onions (no fun let me tell you!). Brine them for 24 hours (this is why so many shop bought onions are soft and pulpy). Pop the onions in sterilized jars and pop in spices (I like chili, cloves and seed coriander). Pour in vinegar, seal and wait 6 weeks.

A few years ago I used some dried chillies from an Asian supermarket - they should've come with a health warning. Don't get me wrong I love food with a chili hit but these made the pickled onions inedible, they became known as the "Killer onions." It wasn't a case of the sort of thing one would use in a macho competition, more a case of what you would use to kill somebody - I'm a little more cautious these days. This time I used my homegrown fresh chillies.

Wednesday, 6 October 2010

Wednesday - eggs again!

Last night I planned to make a traditional Toad in the Hole, with some of Newitts' wonderful Gloucester sausages. (Believe it or not, this dish was originally made using lamb cutlets). However, I found that we had no eggs left to make a batter so we went with Bangers and Mash instead. I put some spring onions and cabbage through the mash and served it with carrots and onion gravy - proper autumnal comfort food.
As we pick up our eggs on a Wednesday, there will regularly be an egg based recipe on Wednesdays. So here we go - this is my recipe for Mexican eggs. A colleague described this as Huevos Rancheros, though my understanding is that this dish involves a tortilla and salsa.
This makes a great weekend breakfast though it would be equally suited for lunch or supper.

Mexican Eggs
Serves 2

4 Free range eggs (from an ethically responsible farm)
Left over cooked potatoes (New or old)
One medium onion
Half a red pepper
A few chillies (how hot do you like?)
A little oil
A sprinkling of mature cheddar

Pre heat your grill. Chop up the onion, pepper and chili and sweat off in the oil till soft and just taking colour. Add the chopped potatoes to the pan and mix. (If you use old potato it will be a bit "bubble and squeaky", if you use new it will be a bit "hash browny") Once the spud is mixed, press it down into the pan and leave to brown on the bottom.
Make four wells in the mix and break an egg into each, sprinkle over the cheese and pop under the grill till the eggs are just setting. Serve with a cup of "Hot Joe."

Special Tip 1 - If you are buying cheese for cooking it is a false economy to buy mild cheddar. You will use much more of it to add flavour and your dish will go fatty.


Tuesday, 5 October 2010

The weekend - and how it seemed to carry on.

I am planning what the Beautiful Wife and I eat much more these days. I have become almost manic about not wasting food. I am no theologian but if there is such a thing a "sin" then it is a sin to waste good food. The "Love food, hate waste" guys have been raving about this for ages and celebrity chefs have recently got on board with the adaptation of the Great British Menu where all the ingredients were sourced from food which had been discarded.
I think a change is slowly happening. Years and years ago there used to be an American TV show called "The Frugal Gourmet" - a middle aged chef with a calm voice and a gentle manner would show the audience how banquets could be produced for pennies and high cost ingredients could be substituted for much cheaper alternatives. At the end of every programme he would lay out everything he had cooked and finish with the line, " I bid you peace" ; there was more than a little of the aging hippy about this fellow.
The word "frugal" has come to mean something negative almost miserly in recent times and this is a shame. If people do not view you as a tightfisted individual then they look at you with pity as if you are suffering for some religious cause or can't afford good food. This is idiotic. To be frugal or thrifty with food is to the advantage of us all, just as we should be eating all of the animals we kill for food, we should also not throw out carrots because they're cheap and look a little beyond their best.
This weekend just gone was one where I cooked more than normal. After shopping on Saturday our evening meal was a carved piece of lamb chump over creamed spinach with roasted onion squash, served with a redcurrant jus and a "kinda" salsa verde. This was inspired by what was in my veggie box and "Saturday Kitchen" a week before.
On Sunday I braised a belly of pork in soy sauce and stock with various Asian spices (inspired by a recipe in Gordon Ramsey's Kitchen Secrets). This I served with broccoli and carrots on a bed of creamy mash. I removed the skin before I rolled and tied the pork and roasted it to produce the most wonderful crackling.
During Sunday I did all the chopping (giving myself a blister on my finger!!) for another batch of green tomato chutney (see recipe from a few days ago). This time I added some chili, root ginger and garlic. I finished this all last night with the boiling and potting.
The leftovers from my weekend's cooking made the most amazing bubble and squeak which I served wit a little bacon and a poached egg - sometimes being frugal is no hardship at all Saturday and Sunday's meals fed us well on Monday. Now my veg box has arrived, I can plan another week....

Saturday, 2 October 2010

The great tomato crisis of 2010

My tomatoes have been a joy this year. I have a tiny garden but do manage to grow the odd plant and I started the year by planting far to many tomato seeds - I ended up giving away over 50 plants in the spring. I kept 12 Golden Sunrise and 3 Hundreds and Thousands. The Beautiful Wife and I have not needed to buy a tomato since mid July and have often faced a glut. Last weekend I "took down" the garden for autumn. This meant dismantling the 12 plants that had been wrapping themselves around each other on the wall of the house. This left me with about 5lbs (2.5 Kg) of ripe tomatoes and about 6lbs (3 KG) of green toms.
Talking to colleagues at school, it appears that everyone has had a good year with their tomatoes apart from those few unlucky people whose caught some blight. For those who now have a mass of toms and don't really know what to do with them here are a couple of recipes. I will write more about chutneys later.

Green tomato chutney

3lb (1.3kg) green tomatoes
1.5lb (675gms) cooking apples
1.5lb (675gms) onions
2tbsp salt
12oz (350gms) sugar
2tsp ground mixed spice
8oz (225gms) Sultanas
1pint (575gms) malt vinegar

Chop or mince onions, apples and toms finely. Place in a large bowl, cover and leave overnight.
Pour off the liquid that has been drawn from the fruit and veg. Transfer the three ingredients to a large pan. Add the vinegar and bring to the boil. Add the spice, dried fruit and sugar.
Bring back to the boil and simmer until everything is pulpy and soft. This can take up
to 90 minutes. Spoon into sterilised jars and allow to mature for a couple of months.Serve with cold cuts salads, bangers and mash or just in sandwiches.


Fresh Tomato Sauce

Ripe tomatoes (any type)
Olive oil
Salt

Cut the tomatoes in half through the middle so that one end has the whole of the stalk point. Lay the on a baking sheet which has been lightly oiled. Sprinkle over a little salt (quality is important here) and put in an oven at a low heat and leave then for about an hour or until the are still holding shape but very gooey and jelly like.
Place then in a sieve over a bowl and force the pulp through the sieve into the bowl. Don’t forget to scrape the bottom of the sieve when all you have left is a dry pulp of skin and seeds left. Jar up the sauce and use over pasta or to enrich a minestrone.
With my yellow, Golden Sunrise tomatoes this sauce is an amazing colour.

Wednesday, 29 September 2010

Wednesday is Egg day!

Every Wednesday I collect my eggs from Anita and John. They run a scheme called "Rent a hen" ( http://www.mill-house-farm.co.uk/ ) that the beautiful wife and I discovered a couple of years ago. The idea is that you pay in advance for six eggs a week - in effect renting a good laying hen. You can even have a named hen! It was the marketing idea that first appealed to me - then I tasted the quality of the eggs and was completely sold!
The best bit for me is that every time we pick up our eggs we see chickens looking healthy and with plenty of genuine pasture to roam in. As consumers we need to be very careful about what we buy. The words "free range" give us a sense of happy hens living in a Beatrix Potter like world producing eggs. The truth is often very different and whilst welfare conditions of free range birds are always going to be better than those of the poor battery beasts we need to be realistic about what we're buying and how well these birds are looked after.
By purchasing at the "farm gate" one can see (and smell) how the creatures are looked after - I cannot stress how important this is, not only to your conscience, but also to the quality of the product and whether you will still be able to buy that product in ten years time.
We sometimes get a double yolk egg from the farm and I was horrified to learn that these are weeded out of most industrial egg production methods because people see them as some kind of mutant. Get a grip people - we should be celebrating the double yolk, surely its a sign of good luck to get one.
I sometimes buy little pullets eggs from Anita and John to be poached and slid on top of a creamy pasta or used in scrambled eggs with black pudding. These are practically impossible to sell to supermarkets because they do not fit the size criteria. This is a nonsense!
Okay, the rant's over now you can come out from behind the sofa, here are two recipes which use different bits of the egg to produce very grown up puddings indeed.

I make no bones about it. I am not a fan of puddings! A little something sweet at the end of a meal is all very well but really I find that desert just gets in the way of cheese with a nice glass of port. Anyway why would you spend hours in the kitchen for something which will be demolished by your guests in under 30 seconds?

However, I accept that there are some misguided people who believe that the whole point of a meal is to get to the pudding course and these two are for them. Both these recipes serve two.

Crème Brulé

This literally translates as “burnt cream” which is not too appealing but it is one of the classic puddings. Everyone has an opinion on this one. For what it’s worth, I like my custard soft and unctuous and my caramel thin and crispy

Ingredients 2 Egg Yolks
½ Pint double cream
1-2 Tbsp Caster sugar
2-3 Tbsp Icing Sugar
1 Tsp Vanilla Essence (or 2 drops of Vanilla extract)


Beat the egg yolks with the caster sugar until pale. Heat the double cream in a pan until warm DO NOT BOIL. Add the vanilla essence to this. Pour the cream onto the yolks and mix.

Put the mix into a shallow heatproof dish in a bain marie and put in a just warm oven for 1 hour or until set.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool down. When cool and firm, sprinkle over a thin layer of the icing sugar and pop under a pre heated grill, DO NOT ALLOW TO BURN. Repeat this process until a layer of caramel has built up which is to your liking.

Allow to cool and devour!

Chocolate Mousse

This is one of the best dinner party puddings. Make in advance and serve in small ramekins with raspberries.

Ingredients 2 Egg whites
½ Pint Double cream
2 Tbsp caster sugar
? Plain Chocolate (how chocolatey do you want it?)

Beat the egg whites to the soft peak stage and add the sugar, beat a little more until silky. Melt the chocolate in a bowl over some boiling water. Beat the cream until stiff.

Gently, and I mean gently, fold the melted chocolate into the egg whites. Then fold this mix into the cream. Pop in the fridge to set.


All usual rules about egg safety stand. The best way to ensure this is to buy high quality eggs.

Monday, 27 September 2010

I'm Back!

So here we are then. I've probably been the worst blogger in living memory but I have been inspired to write again. My inspiration has come from two places: The passionate yet full grounded food genius who is Nigel Slater has published the second part of "Tender" and it is wonderful. Also I'm now getting a weekly organic fruit and veg' box from Abel and Cole.
I am no longer taking school dinners and appear to have developed a habit of making soup which I am thoroughly enjoying for lunch.
My tomato crop this year has been fantastic - it started by me planting far too many seeds and having more than fifty plants to give away. I kept 12 Golden Sunrise and 4 Hundreds and Thousands. In short we haven't bought a tomato since the end of July. I have made sauces and tarts and soups and used them in any number of ways. So imagine my joy when my veg box contained half a dozen beautiful tomatoes! They do call September "the fat month" after all.
I do love this time of year - great fruit and veg at a very reasonable price.
A couple of weeks ago the box from Abel and Cole contained a glorious red cabbage about the size of a football. I braised the whole thing in a giant casserole (see below) and served it as part of a wonderful roast rib of beef from Newitts. The rest has been frozen in readiness for lamb shanks or pot roast belly of pork.

Braised Red Cabbage.
This is one of those recipes which have no real volumes, just educated guesses!

One large red cabbage.
A couple of small onions (red or white wine vinegar would be good).
A couple of apples.
1 large glass of red wine.
Serious glug of red wine vinegar.
A little oil.

Slice the cabbage into small slices about 3-5 inches long and 1/2 inch wide. Cut onion into small pieces. Peel and core the apples and cut into small pieces. Place a large casserole on the hob and crank it up to a medium high heat, add oil then onion and apple. Stir for about three minutes then add the cabbage and stir for a further two. Add the wet ingredients and stir. Pop the lid on the pan and put the casserole into the oven at a medium high heat for ninety minutes.
Serve with any red meat, game and pork.

Today's veg box contained broccoli, spinach and an onion squash amongst other thins so it should be an interesting week. More later.