About twenty years ago I was drinking in a pub in North London, it was a very well run establishment and was making every effort to be both up to date and embedded in the community. I instantly became a huge fan. No effort was made to be a "gastro pub" though the food it served was delicious and well priced. It was simply that the team really cared about food, but without any swagger. I was drinking one of my first ever draught pints of Hoegaarden and, as I glanced across the room I saw a sign that has stuck with me ever since-
Second best Sunday roast in the world! (you don't expect me to compete with your mother , do you?)
This gets to the truth of the Sunday roast, its full of nostalgia: For my parents, Sunday lunch was sacrosanct; the four of us would sit down to my mothers excellent cooking and talk, sometimes for hours. I credit those afternoons with my parents for my broad general knowledge and my love of rich, engaging conversation.
Incidentally, I thought that I had always known how to put together a Sunday Roast until I realised that I had learned by watching my mother. I used to do my homework on Sunday morning, sitting at the table in the kitchen. I simply soaked up the knowledge by being in the room with a highly competent cook.
This entry is not written as a standard recipe just a set of hints and tip as to how one should get the Sunday roast to the table.
The meat - Lamb and beef can be served as rare as you are comfortable but remember your guests tastes may not be the same as yours. Lamb without the fat well rendered can be a bit of a challenge for many people. Chicken should be cooked until there is no redness in the meat. Modern pork can be served a little bit pink but this will drive most people away so the challenge is to keep it moist and cooked through. Check regularly and go with your own sense of what is right for you. My only key suggestion would be to start the meat off at a very high temperature for ten minutes or so then turn the temperature down to about 170 fan.
Roast potatoes - I have been called quirky (and some ruder things too) for the way I produce roasties. I maintain that it is pure science. Primarily this method only works on cold, dry day. The potatoes should be main crop (Maris piper or King Edwards perhaps). Peel the spuds and cut into golf ball size chunks (just with sharp edges). pop them into cold water with a big pinch of salt, bring to the boil and boil for 10 minutes. Drain the potatoes (capture the boiling water for later). Now for the quirky bit: Pop the colander with your spuds in it outside of your door to steam fast, this should take about 10 minutes. The outside of the potatoes will crack and ruffle, give them a gentle shake to help this. Your meat should've been roasting for a while by now, lift the roasting tray out of the oven and surround the meat with the spuds. roll them over to coat with fat. Pop back in the oven turning once during the cooking.
Gravy - If you are lucky enough to have some fresh or frozen stock use this but should you need to use a stock cube (like most of us without shame) this is where the retained potato water comes in. When you have taken the meat out to rest, pop the spuds in a different dish and put the roasting dish onto the hob and heat up. Add a tablespoon of plain flour and stir to create a loose roux. I like to add a splash of dry sherry at this point but id booze is not your bag then leave it out. Stir in the stock and ensure there are no lumps. boil gently till thick and shiny. If you really want to jazz it up, add a couple of teaspoons of redcurrant, apple or even quince jelly.
Vegetables - I am prepared to be attacked for this statement but I like carrots for a roast to be soft the whole way through. Also they do not need to be glazed for this meal. It's often worth cooking the greens before the meal and refreshed under cold water. This helps to keep a lovely green colour. Simply reheat in a frying pan with a little butter. Parsnips can be roasted with the potatoes (but do not need par boiling first). Please don't feel the need to add honey or such - parsnips are naturally sweet (after they have had a frost on them) and the sugary additives will burn and ruin your gravy.
For the photo I roasted a kg of rolled pork loin.
The match
The Kernel brewery is one of London's gems. Its beers with their understated labels have become the stuff of legend. The quality of brewing is present in everything they produce. This "sour" is no exception. It is a Saison with a sour cherry flavour through it. I have a huge soft spot for Saisons. They are traditional, hybrid beer with a history wrapped up in the agricultural seasons, having been made as part payment to itinerant workers at the harvest. Saisons often have a hint of sourness and the cherry lifts this to total palate cleansing freshness. I thought this would cut through the pork and the general fattiness of the roast, after all, we regularly serve apple with pork. The sad truth was that the match was a bit too much. This is entirely my fault. Truly delicious beer, totally delicious food, just not made for each other. I felt a little bit like the person who had set up his two best friends on a blind date only to find out that they simply didn't like each other!
No comments:
Post a Comment