Saturday, 23 May 2020

Inspiration and perspiration.

There are very few new ideas in food. Most interesting ideas in modern food are modern twists on old classics or an introduction of new ingredients or cuisine to a different context. Calital food was probably the first of these to be given a name. The sheer glory of Californian produce with Italian cooking wasn't actually to big a leap of anyone's imagination but it did produce some stunning dishes. Those few cooks and chefs who go beyond innovation into invention usually end up with Michelin stars or bankrupt or both.
Most of us mere mortals search for inspiration from the familiar places: a stunning ingredient, and old classic, a particular location, the work of a "proper" chef and such.
The dish below comes from a few of these!
In February, before the world shifted on its axis, the Beautiful Wife and I were invited out to dinner at the Sir Charles Napier near Chiner on the edge of the Chiltern Hills. The meal was a triumph with that rare combination of great food, great wine and great company. The quality of the cooking was really very high - The memory of the Rhubarb Souffle will stay with me for ever.
For my main course I had the Navarin of Lamb. This in its purest form is a rustic lamb and vegetable stew, very "paysan" and hearty. However, the chef had taken this ancient dish and completely re - thought it. I have never been a fan of the idea of de-constructed dishes but to a degree that is what he did. It was a piece of exemplary cooking. I have endeavoured to recreate it since then and now have something of which I am proud. I have served it with different vegetables as we are later in the year.

Braised Neck Fillet of Lamb with puree of Cauliflower, Roast Beetroot and Thrice cooked chips.

1 large neck fillet of lamb
2 or 3 long shallots
Red wine
Lamb stock
2 carrots - diced
3 or 4 celery stalks - diced
1 medium onion  - diced
1 tbsp plain flour

Cauliflower puree
1/2 head of cauliflower
250 ml double cream
1/2 onion finely chopped
1 clove garlic

Thrice cooked chips
2 large baking potatoes
Lard
Salt

Roast beetroot
1 large beetroot
Oil

In a large saucepan or stock pot heat a little oil and brown the meat until the surface is a little caramelised add in the celery, onions and carrots and fry them with the meat for a couple of minutes until they are just starting to take colour. add in the flour and stir into the mix. Then add half a bottle of wine and a similar amount of stock and stir in gently but thoroughly. Cover and allow to stew on the hob for a couple of hours till the meat is just starting to fall apart. 
In the mean time cut the potatoes into neat large chips wash them in cold water to remove excess starch and boil until they are becoming just tender. Dry them and allow them to cool then chill them in a fridge for an hour or so. Bring 1/3 of a large pan full of melted lard up to a temperature of about 160 centigrade. Fry the chips until they are soft but have not taken any colour. Again cool the chips. Just before serving fry the chips in the fat at 180 centigrade. 
Also while the lamb is cooking the beetroot should be cut into equal sized cubes and popped into the oven with the oil to roast (This takes about 45 mins to an hour.)
To make the cauliflower puree, break the cauliflower into small florets and put them in a pan with enough veg stock to just cover them boil until the cauliflower is very soft and then add the cream. Boil this to thicken a little and then blitz to a puree. This maybe to thin, in which case pop it back in the pan and continue to thicken. Incidentally, you probably wont use all of the puree but it makes a great base for a cream of cauliflower soup (I always thin it out a bit with cream and add crumbled Stilton)
About 20 minutes before serving peel the shallots and cut in half, keeping the root bit attached. Pop this with a little oil in the oven to roast down, caramelise and become all sticky. 
Meanwhile, back at the lamb. Remove the neck fillet from the stew and place somewhere warm; it should be falling apart like pulled lamb. Strain the liquid of the all the veg. They have done their job. Take about 200 to 250 ml of the liquid into a clean saucepan and reduce fast to create a shiny syrupy sauce, maybe add a little butter to add some gloss. Slice the neck fillet in half. Place a piece of neck fillet on half the roast shallot and plate up the rest as you see fit!

A word about presentation: My default position on presentation is "Bistro / Brasserie / Family" I have no aspiration to produce works of art on a plate. Though I always want my food to look like one would want to eat it. For this reason (and many others) it was never in my destiny to win Michelin Stars!
However, with this dish I did go a little to town and showed off, on our best china.
The finished article.

















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