There is, however, a bread that requires no addition of yeast, just flour, water, salt and a strange flour and water mix that has been kept captive for a while, being fed flour and water every so often. I write of Sourdough bread.
Sourdough relies on the naturally occurring yeasts in flour and in the air to create enough carbon dioxide to leaven a loaf. It has become, over the past 15 years, very trendy and a little bit over burdened with snobbery, both direct and inverted. At its best it is delicious, at its worst quite plain.
My first memory of Sourdough was in San Francisco in 1995. I was back packing across the States for a month and, owing to jet lag, woke very early in my youth hostel. I headed of on the short walk to Fisherman's Wharf where the was a coffee stand just opening up. I ordered a coffee and a roll for my breakfast. It was a revelation. This chewy, slightly acidic, thick crusted bread was quite delicious. I will always link sourdough to that beautiful, sunny, August morning in California.
I have tried several times to cultivate my own sourdough, starting with following instructions online to purchasing several starters. I have not been able to get these to work for me in any meaningful way and I have certainly not been able to sustain them. However, in times of crisis we must show some determination! So I started another batch and have just baked my first loaf this morning. The loaf is not perfect, but the first few loaves are not supposed to be, and it was quite delicious with my own marmalade for breakfast.
If you search the internet for recipes to create your own sourdough starter then you will find hundreds of different ways of doing it; from adding grapes to the initial mix to mixing many flours and I'm sure these all work well in context but I went for pure simplicity and it appears to have worked.
Below you will see my recipe but I make no guarantee that it will work for you. It is worth bearing in mind that Corner Cottage is a Victorian farm labourer's cottage and is home to both normal bread making and brewing so there may well be some interesting wild yeasts that have got into my mix that might nor find their way into yours.
Sourdough starter
In a large jar with a seal add 50gms of strong bread flour to 75gms of water. Mix thoroughly and then seal the jar for 24 hours. Add the same volumes of flour and water for 4 more days, stirring thoroughly every time. It should be the consistency of thick double cream. You can adjust the flour and water to achieve this consistency as you go. By day 4 or 5 you should start to see bubbles rising to the surface of the sourdough and a definite sour smell should be coming off! By day 6 you should be ready for your first loaf!
After you have taken your first batch of sourdough starter of the process of feeding the starter begins again.
Sourdough loaf
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Sourdough starter with the finished loaf. |
400gms Strong bread flour
200gms Water
15gms Salt
Add all the ingredients to a bowl and bring together. Kneed in your usual manner for a wet dough. (It's worth checking out Richard Bertinet on line for this. He demonstrates a fantastic way to knead any dough with over 65% hydration, there are some quite good spoofs on this too)
Pop your soft, kneaded dough into a clean bowl with a dusting of flour and cover. Put the bowl in a warm, draft fee environment.
Now comes the wait. Depending on the liveliness of your starter and about 10,000 other variables your dough may take a couple of ours to double in size or even as much as a working day (mine took 7 hours yesterday).
Knock the dough back (how I hate that term) folding it gently in on itself to form a small ball again and then pop it in a loaf tin (or banneton) for a second prove (I left mine overnight for this one!).
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At the start of the second prove. Patience is all. |
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And in the morning, ready for the oven |
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Such great toast |
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