A Year in Bread - Back to the bread.

I had great plans. This year was to be a year of making bread, Then Covid19 arrived and everything changed. Along with their toilet rolls people bulk bought flour and yeast. I should be pleased about this, after all, I have been suggesting people should learn to make their own bread for ages and telling them about the joy of a home made loaf and the house smelling a little like a French boulangerie. Then they all go ahead and do it! It is only in the last few weeks that I have been able to get my hands on any strong bread flour, and I still have not found any yeast, dried or fresh! (I do have a small stash of dried yeast so all was not lost.
There is, however, a bread that requires no addition of yeast, just flour, water, salt and a strange flour and water mix that has been kept captive for a while, being fed flour and water every so often. I write of Sourdough bread.
Sourdough relies on the naturally occurring yeasts in flour and in the air to create enough carbon dioxide to leaven a loaf. It has become, over the past 15 years, very trendy and a little bit over burdened with snobbery, both direct and inverted. At its best it is delicious, at its worst quite plain.
My first memory of Sourdough was in San Francisco in 1995. I was back packing across the States for a month and, owing to jet lag, woke very early in my youth hostel. I headed of on the short walk to Fisherman's Wharf where the was a coffee stand just opening up. I ordered a coffee and a roll for my breakfast. It was a revelation. This chewy, slightly acidic, thick crusted bread was quite delicious. I will always link sourdough to that beautiful, sunny, August morning in California.
I have tried several times to cultivate my own sourdough, starting with following instructions online to purchasing several starters. I have not been able to get these to work for me in any meaningful way and I have certainly not been able to sustain them. However, in times of crisis we must show some determination! So I started another batch and have just baked my first loaf this morning. The loaf is not perfect, but the first few loaves are not supposed to be, and it was quite delicious with my own marmalade for breakfast.
If you search the internet for recipes to create your own sourdough starter then you will find hundreds of different ways of doing it; from adding grapes to the initial mix to mixing many flours and I'm sure these all work well in context but I went for pure simplicity and it appears to have worked.
Below you will see my recipe but I make no guarantee that it will work for you. It is worth bearing in mind that Corner Cottage is a Victorian farm labourer's cottage and is home to both normal bread making and brewing so there may well be some interesting wild yeasts that have got into my mix that might nor find their way into yours.

Sourdough starter
In a large jar with a seal add 50gms of strong bread flour to 75gms of water. Mix thoroughly and then seal the jar for 24 hours. Add the same volumes of flour and water for 4 more days, stirring thoroughly every time. It should be the consistency of thick double cream. You can adjust the flour and water to achieve this consistency as you go. By day 4 or 5 you should start to see bubbles rising to the surface of the sourdough and a definite sour smell should be coming off! By day 6 you should be ready for your first loaf!
After you have taken your first batch of sourdough starter of the process of feeding the starter begins again.

Sourdough loaf

Sourdough starter with the finished loaf.

250gms Sourdough starter
400gms Strong bread flour
200gms Water
15gms Salt

Add all the ingredients to a bowl and bring together. Kneed in your usual manner for a wet dough. (It's worth checking out Richard Bertinet on line for this. He demonstrates a fantastic way to knead any dough with over 65% hydration, there are some quite good spoofs on this too)
Pop your soft, kneaded dough into a clean bowl with a dusting of flour and cover. Put the bowl in a warm, draft fee environment.
Now comes the wait. Depending on the liveliness of your starter and about 10,000 other variables your dough may take a couple of ours to double in size or even as much as a working day (mine took 7 hours yesterday).

Knock the dough back (how I hate that term) folding it gently in on itself to form a small ball again and then pop it in a loaf tin (or banneton) for a second prove (I left mine overnight for this one!).

At the start of the second prove. Patience is all.

Finally the simplest bit. Bake in a very hot oven for about 25 minutes until dark golden brown and a little bit shiny (yes really). If you are using a banneton turn out the loaf and bake on a pizza stone or hot baking sheet.

And in the morning, ready for the oven

Allow to cool before eating (if you can). It incidentally makes the best toast on earth.

Such great toast

A Year in Bread - Plain White Loaf

This is my first recipe for bread of the year. It is for a very straightforward, 'never fail' loaf.

1 kg Strong White Flour
600 gms water (it doesn't have to be warm)
15 gms salt
15 gms fresh yeast
15 gms butter (cut into tiny pieces)

Put all the flour into a large bowl. Crumble in the yeast (if it is fresh it will crumble). Add in the butter and the water and begin to mix the dough.

The start. Mixing the ingredients

I use one hand like a claw to start with until it all starts to come together. At this point add the salt and continue mixing until it form a sticky dough, it should leave the bowl almost completely clean. Your hands will get covered in sticky dough, this may feel a bit weird at first but you will get used to it.
Place the dough on a flat surface and begin to knead. There is no need to flour the surface. This is a very personal process.

Ready for kneading.

For a 60% hydration loaf (the ratio of water to flour) like this I find that a pushing away from you with the heal of the hand whilst holding the edge closest to you work well. Then I pull the dough back slightly rolling it back on itself. I then turn the dough through 90 degrees and start again.
Kneading should take between 5 and 10 minutes depending on how hard and fast the dough is worked. It will feel light and smooth and will return to its original shape if a finger is gently poked into it.
I tend to use an earthenware bowl for bread making (Mason Cash no 9) and I now clean out any of the original mix using very hot water and I allow the bowl to get warm. The bowl should now be dried carefully and the tiniest pinch of flour thrown in. I then place the dough in the bowl and cover it tight with cling film.

Time for patience.

This is then placed in a draft free place at a constant room temperature for an hour.
The dough should have doubled in size and now it must be 'knocked back' (a term I hate).

Fully risen dough.

Simply take the dough out of the bowl and reshape it back to a much smaller ball forcing some of the carbon dioxide out.

Bubbles before "knock back"

Place the dough back in the bowl and cover again for another hour.
After the dough has risen for the second time take it out of the bowl and divide it into two equal parts, shape these into the particular style of loaf desired place these on a floured baking sheet and leave alone for 20 to 30 minutes. Turn the oven on to 250 degrees and place a roasting dish at the bottom of the oven.

Final prove 

When the loaves have risen for the final time dust them with flour and cut them to enable the to rise in the oven without bursting out of the side! Do not use anything blunt for this; A scalpel or razor blade works well for this.

Cut loaves, ready for the oven

Slide the loaves into the oven and add about 150ml of boiling water to the roasting dish. Allow the loaves to bake without disturbing them too much. Take a look once and turn them if you know your oven has a hot spot. The loaves are done when you turn one over, tap it and it sounds hollow. (Be careful doing this they will be hot!
Take them out when "hollow" and the crusts looks right for you, some like it darker than others!
If you can bear it, let them cool a bit before tucking in.

Loaves ready for butter.

A Year in Bread - Beginings

To everyone ho reads this blog may I first wish a very happy New Year, may it bring us all what we want and need without giving us what we really deserve.
As you can probably tell from the title, having written last year about preserving, this year i intend to blog about Bread.
Bread, in all its forms, carries massive significance socially, religiously and politically. It is the staff of life a simple mix of flour, water yeast and salt which can lift our spirits an satiate out hunger. I has also been abused and downgraded in the interests of profit. The last few years have seen a return to a demand for higher quality bread and this is, without doubt positive.
It is perfectly possible to make great bread at home with the minimum of kit and this year I be posting my regular attempts to try new recipes using new flours and techniques. As I type I have very simple white dough proving in order to make a couple of loaves to see us through to the weekend.
It is worth remembering that when we eat together we "break bread" and in almost every culture there is a bread with massive significance.
During the year I am also looking to do research into the the global significance of bread and the components of bread too. Here's to a great 2020!